By Christopher Waters, Special to the Globe and Mail
On the eve of the 13th annual International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C), Christopher Waters revisits a controversial topic that divided the audience at a previous i4C “School of Cool.” In a presentation given by Alex Maltman, emeritus professor of Earth sciences at Aberystwyth University in Wales, UK, and the author of Vineyards, Rocks and Soils: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology, he discusses the contentious use of the word “minerality” in wine descriptions.
“The belief that we are tasting the geology of the vineyard directly is a lovely idea, Maltman explained during a talk at the 2015 edition of Niagara’s chardonnay celebration. ‘Journalists love it. It offers all sorts of good marketing opportunities, but I am afraid from a scientific point of view, it doesn’t really hold up. Vines don’t work like that.’”